With its stores extravagantly decorated, the city's Magnificent Mile is just the cure for a bad case of the humbugs

CHICAGO -- For those who have lost the Christmas spirit amid the commercialism of our times, there is no tonic like a visit to Chicago.

No city does Christmas quite as well as Chicago, from its Magnificent Mile Lights Festival to the wonderfully decorated department-store windows to a day-ending toddy in front of a fireplace.

Any adult who has forgotten or wants to recapture that sense of Christmas as a child, needs a weekend in Chicago. The actual Lights Festival was held a month ago, but it's not too late to see the fulfillment of its purpose, which was to decorate and light up the Magnificent Mile, that famous stretch of North Michigan Avenue, which can exhaust even the hardiest shopper.

While children may soon tire of touring the stores and boutiques on North Michigan, bring them anyway. There are enough activities geared to the season to keep them occupied. Parents can easily switch off supervision duties to allow both adults enough time for solo shopping excursions.

The Magnificent Mile and the immediate area are dotted with hotels from budget to sumptuous, but a Christmas weekend has to start with the Drake Hotel. It is a glorious old-fashioned hotel at East Walton Place and North Michigan at the north end of the Magnificent Mile.

If you cannot recapture the spirit of Christmas after a December weekend at the Drake, even Charles Dickens himself could not revive you.

As you walk up the steps of the opulent lobby, gazing up at the intricate woodwork and hand-painted ceiling, childhood beckons. At the top of the stairs awaits one of the most beautiful Christmas trees you will ever see.

Every inch of the tree, which stretches toward the distant ceiling, is covered in oversized decorations. And just behind the tree, tucked into a corner of the lobby, two model trains chug through a tiny town fully decorated for Christmas.

The Drake is one of the few North American hotels (it is part of the Hilton chain) for commercial travellers that still has old-world service. Some of the rooms may not be overly large, but every floor has a lounge and a large bowl of fresh fruit waiting for you as you leave the elevator. Alas, the elevator attendants vanished a few years ago, victims of the cost-cutters at head office.

From the hotel, you can walk either south along Michigan to survey the lights and store windows or go west to Rush Street and sample some of the finest nightlife on the continent. But since this is a family weekend, we'll stick to the Christmas theme.

A walk down Michigan is a walk through conspicuous consumption, but you can make it a vicarious pleasure by keeping your eyes on the window decorations and a grip on your wallet. Among the stores that go all out in the decorating contest that is part of the Magnificent Mile Lights Festival are Dunhill, Marshall Field's, Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co., and Nordstrom.

The Marshall Field's store at 111 North State St. traditionally offers the most spectacular window displays. Employees spend more than a year creating each display and almost a month assembling it.

This year, the 12 windows along State Street tell the story of The Night Before Christmas. You can take the kids to meet Santa in his Cozy Cloud Cottage in the children's department. Also on State Street is Carson Pirie Scott, which has handmade, animated gingerbread figures in its windows.

Inside Marshall Field's, there is also no expense spared when it comes to decoration. The store has been known as the home of Mr. And Mrs. Santabear since 1985 and has a different theme each year around the popular stuffed toys. This year's theme is based on the film, 2001 A Space Odyssey, and the resident couple is shown in full space regalia.

As far as the shopping goes, the best advice is to leave the Drake, turn left on Michigan and follow your eyes. You can take in the decorations and stop and shop whenever the spirit moves you.

For a break from shopping, or if one parent wants to keep the children occupied while the other wanders, the Navy Pier (600 E. Grand Ave.) is an excellent choice. It overlooks Lake Michigan about a 20-minute walk from the Drake or, if the Chicago winds are particularly vicious, it's a short cab ride.

The large Ferris wheel is a local landmark, but the attractions at this time of year are all indoors. The kids can visit Santa and walk through an indoor winter scene, complete with elves and life-size candy canes. There is also indoor skating, jousting games and rock climbing.

If you would like to get the blood circulating, there is outdoor skating at Millennium Park, near State Street. The skating is free and skates can be rented.

Once the shopping and exploring are finished for the day, there is no shortage of places to relax. One of the best is the Palm Court off the lobby at the Drake, where you can have a traditional afternoon tea.

Afternoon tea is popular in Chicago, as many of the big hotels on and around the Magnificent Mile offer the service. Among the best are the Ritz-Carlton Hotel (160 E. Pearson St., above the Water Tower Place, which has many storeys of stores) and the Peninsula Chicago (108 East Superior St.), which also offers live music.

For a really cozy end to the day, there's nothing like a strong drink and a meal in front of a fireplace. If you want to stay on Michigan, try RL/Ralph Lauren (115 E. Chicago Ave.) next to the designer's store. It has the feel of an English study, albeit one that serves martinis and American cuisine.

A little farther away, but not far by cab, is the Blackhawk Lodge (41 East Superior St.). There are three fireplaces here, one in front of the sofas in the bar, one in the dining room and one in the enclosed veranda.

Another popular fireplace spot is Ann Sather (929 West Belmont Ave.), but this Scandinavian restaurant has lineups all day, as it is a favourite breakfast and brunch spot.

For more information on these and other seasonal activities, go to http://www.metromix.com, a Web site affiliated with the Chicago Tribune. It is easy to navigate and has a comprehensive list of restaurants, shopping and hotel packages.