TEHRAN -- In a country where women are required to dress in loose-fitting, ankle-length clothes and cover their hair and necks with head scarves, fashion would appear to have limited possibilities.

But in a sign of a gradual relaxation of Iran's social restrictions, the first women's fashion magazine to be published in the country since the 1979 Islamic revolution has just hit the newsstands.

With a burst of bright colours and innovative designs influenced by traditional Persian costumes, the quarterly journal Lotous is something of a revolution in itself.

"Women generally like dressing elegantly and Iranian women are no exception," said Mahla Zamani, the fashion designer who publishes the new magazine and created the outfits that adorn its glossy pages.

"I have used lots of beautiful colours in my designs to give a fresh psychological and spiritual boost to women," said Ms. Zamani, a former bank manager who studied fashion design in England.

Well before the Islamic revolution, in 1936, Iranian monarch Reza Shah Pahlavi ordered that all women should remove their traditional veils and dress Western- style.

That rankled many traditionalists, particularly in rural areas, and offended the Islamic clergy. So it caused little surprise when the new clerical rulers imposed a strict dress code on women after the fall of the monarchy.

Since then, the very hint of fashion has been frowned upon by the religious establishment.

For many clerics, the all-enveloping head-to-toe black shroud known as the chador (literally, tent) was essential for protecting a woman's modesty.

Drab browns, dark blues and greys were favoured over brighter colours. Patterns were out.

But these rules have been steadily relaxed in recent years, and now, when they are in public, many young Iranian women wear long trousers and a coat, usually to just below the knee, and allow as much hair as possible to spill out from under colourful silk scarves.

In private, the coats and scarves come off, often revealing the latest dresses from top European designers.

Sandals have even made a comeback, although anyone pushing the boundaries of acceptable dress too far in public still risks being picked up by the morals police and fined or even flogged.

Ms. Zamani, who is in her early 50s, believes in the adage, "You are what you wear."

"Black is the colour for mourning and grieving. I believe Iranian women feel depressed simply because of the dark colours they wear," she said.

She switched from banking to focus on fashion almost a decade ago and has already pushed back frontiers by showcasing her designs at a series of fashion shows in Tehran.

But she says those who fear a creeping fashion consciousness will lead to a collapse in moral standards have nothing to worry about.

"I have updated the designs in the traditional clothes to show women can improve their looks while fully observing Islamic principles," said Ms. Zamani, dressed in a long burgundy gown bordered with gold embroidery, a black scarf and several silver rings.

Although a few of those questioned felt the designs were a bit ostentatious, most men seemed to agree that the new styles are a refreshing change.

"In a city that lacks any sign of character or vibrancy, it would make things brighter and more beautiful if our women were to implement a little of their traditional taste to clothing," 42-year-old businessman Alireza Salehizadeh said as he flipped through the journal.

"The designs are loose and covered -- no one is opposed to wearing colourful stuff. They are even better than the tight coats available in the market now," taxi driver Ali Rezaei said.

For Ms. Zamani, the objective is to provide Iranian women with an alternative that falls between chador and Western attire.

"We should get rid of the Western designs which are not appropriate for Iran. If we provide fashion for our women, they will never have to resort to Western fashion," she said.