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Posted on 05/06/04

Azure makes clear why foodies don't eat in hotels

Azure Intercontinental Hotel, 225 Front St. W., Toronto, 416-597-1400. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip, $150.Many is the hotel that has hired a big-name chef/artiste to front its dining room. Most of these marriages have ended fairly promptly in divorce. It's easy to see why both parties to the folly engage in it: The hotel, not content to be seen as capable of only slinging steaks to conventioneers, is looking for public profile and hoping for local customers, all evidence and experience to the contrary. The chef is wooed by corporate smooth talkers who promise better hours than work in free-standing restaurants and, of course, big bucks. A chef in a restaurant is lucky to make much more than $50,000, but a hotel chain can pay its executive chef $100,000 a year.

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