Last week at the ProWein exhibition, Wine of Moldova made headlines by conducting a wine tasting of samples produced under the guidance of an artificial intelligence bot called Chelaris. Billed as “the first serious AI wine,” the red and white wines were tasted alongside conventional examples from Moldova vineyards.
Working with data collected over five years by Moldova’s National Office of Vine and Wine, Chelaris used algorithms to suggest everything from harvest dates to vinification techniques, as well as blending and bottling decisions. Computer-assisted tools were also used to create labels and a marketing plan for the AI wines, which were presented to nearly 1,000 wine professionals from around the world at a masterclass and at the Wine of Moldova stand during the trade show in Düsseldorf, Germany.
Artificial intelligence is already assisting many facets of grape growing and winemaking, as producers look to improve the quality, efficiency and sustainability of wine production. The wine industry is working with computerized systems the same way other industries and manufacturing facilities are.
Robots and AI technology are being used to monitor the health of vineyards and help harvest grapes. Wineries use AI technology to help maintain consistency through the winemaking process. But there’s a reason they don’t grant total control to their virtual oenologist tools.
In a news release, Diana Lazar, project lead for Wine of Moldova’s AI wine, said audience feedback showed a strong preference for traditionally made wines. “Basically, this underscores that AI cannot replace human expertise in this field yet,” she said.
But the organization of nearly 60 wineries working across four winemaking regions in Moldova still sees the importance of using “a synergy of human intuition and AI-enabled precision” to develop their regional winemaking styles, she added. The Moldovan wine industry focuses on a mix of grape varieties. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir are cultivated with local varieties, including feteasca alba and viorica.
Using the AI wine tasting as an opportunity to draw attention to Moldova’s wine interests, Stefan Iamandi, director of the country’s National Office of Vine and Wine, reported that the industry there continues to grow, with an increase in vineyards and production capacity planned over the next few years. Moldovan wineries are seeing success at international wine competitions, but most of the country’s exports are bulk wine for now.
You won’t find a wine from Moldova among this week’s recommended wines. Instead, there are six wines from various producers working in different regions around the world. The lineup includes a classic example of Niagara gamay, a stylish red from northern Spain and a satisfying shiraz from South Australia. Each has come into being through a mix of traditional approaches and technological improvements to winemaking over the course of decades. Artificial intelligence bots aren’t likely to replace winemakers any time soon, but they will continue to be counted on as a useful tool for optimizing how wine is made.
Bachelder Les Villages Gamay Noir 2021 (Canada) $26.95
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The Villages label is a blend of wines from the network of Niagara vineyards that winemaker Thomas Bachelder uses to produce an extensive portfolio of single-vineyard gamays. This bottle captures the year, grape and place with style and charm. It shows juicy berry/cherry fruit with some spicy notes that are really satisfying. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.95 direct, bachelderniagara.com, $26 in Quebec.
Bortoluzzi Pinot Grigio 2022 (Italy), $23.95
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Bortoluzzi delivers an expressive model of pinot grigio, with rich honey and spicy notes mingling with citrus, apple and melon flavours. A dry white wine that offers nice concentration and intensity, this is enjoyable on its own or with a meal. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Champagne Doyard-Mahé Empreinte Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs (France), $87
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This rich and refreshing Champagne is featured in the current release for members of the Opimian Wine Club, a non-profit organization with members across the country. Winemaker Carole Doyard farms nearly six hectares of chardonnay grapes around the village of Vertus in the southernmost part of the Côtes des Blanc region. This bottle offers mellow citrus and yellow apple flavours with nutty and toasty notes that add complexity. It’s an enjoyable Champagne that’s nicely balanced and flavourful, ideal for entertaining. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, opimian.ca, sold as a case of six bottles.
Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2021 (Spain), $28.95
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Pétalos is produced with mencia grapes (blended with small amounts of red and white varieties) grown in the mountainous Beirzo region in Spain. This is a distinctively fresh and savoury red with black olive, pepper and cedar notes over top of berry and currant fruit flavours. It is an elegant and enjoyable version of a wine that has been consistently made since 1998. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $37.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $29.99 in Manitoba, $25.95 in Quebec.
Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2021 (Australia), $23.95
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The Barry family have owned the Lodge Hill Vineyard in South Australia’s Clare Valley since 1977. The Lodge Hill Shiraz, which was first produced in 2001, has evolved to become a plush and focused red wine with satisfying fruity and spicy flavours. The medium-bodied and bright style is drinking nicely now, but has suitable structure and concentration for aging. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $30.95 in Manitoba.
Niro di Citra Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019 (Italy), $16.95
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This simple and enjoyable red wine, which is made with montepulciano grapes grown in Abruzzo, offers an appealing core of juicy red fruit with peppery and tea-like notes that add complexity. It is nicely balanced, with a slight bitterness on the finish that adds to the refreshing character. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.99 in British Columbia.
Christopher Waters