Wine geeks love an underdog. Our passion for riesling is a case in point.
While besotted sommeliers and wine writers (guilty) praise riesling’s purity of expression and fluidity of style, consumers usually dismiss it categorically as too sweet.
Riesling suffers from a lack of consumer confidence, and the common criticism I hear is that people don’t know what to expect when they spot those tall, fluted bottles. Not all chardonnays are created equal. Some are simple. Some are complex. Some are fruity and sweet to taste. Some broadcast intense coconut and vanilla notes from extended contact with oak. But this doesn’t seem to be a source of confusion for wine lovers.
Wine appreciation is a matter of taste, but consistency is important. The popularity of sauvignon blanc from New Zealand is often credited to the fact that consumers know what to expect. As a result, they are quick to grab a bottle and go. According to liquor-store managers, there’s such confidence wine lovers aren’t brand loyal. They shop the category and take advantage of what’s on sale or offering a loyalty-point incentive.
Riesling producers today can only dream of such acceptance. Sales have been sluggish for years. Aromatic and fruity styles of white wine are out of fashion, even at Canadian wineries that make great expressions of riesling. Only gewurztraminer has less street cred in Canadian vineyards.
Riesling lovers frequently point blame at sweet and uninteresting examples, such as Blue Nun, Black Tower or Moselland (whose cat-shaped bottles in a rainbow of colours were holiday season fixtures at LCBO stores). But riesling isn’t usually to blame for those sugary concoctions. And, once again, there’s no shortage of inferior wines made with other grape varieties that don’t tarnish the widescale reputation of every other producer. Riesling is held to different standards.
After 30-plus years of enjoying and advocating for riesling, especially Canadian examples, I suggest grabbing a bottle to try with an open mind. Sweetness and a fruity character may come with the territory. But there are many other dry and satisfying styles coming out Germany, Australia and Canadian vineyards to explore. The majority of riesling consumed in Germany is dry, not sweet. Top German bottles can be difficult to find, keep tabs with specialty stores and online offers.
The riesling grape can produce invigoratingly fragrant and flavourful wines with a variety of personalities because of regional styles as well as harvest and winemaking decisions. That chameleon-like character is the reason wine geeks love riesling; maybe there’s still hope that passion can be passed along to the masses. Here are six enjoyable rieslings that show a range of flavours and sweetness levels to try.
Cave Spring Riesling Estate 2020 (Canada), $21.95
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A warm vintage and bottle age has contributed honey and earthy notes to this classic Niagara, Ont., riesling, which offers lemon, peach and tropical fruit flavours. Made in a medium-bodied and dry style, this is nicely concentrated and balanced with a refreshingly long finish. Drink now to 2032. (12 per cent abv, 7 g/litre r.s.) Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, cavespring.ca, various prices in Alberta, $25.99 in Manitoba.
Dobbin Dry Riesling 2019 (Canada), $60
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This complex and ripe expression of riesling comes from an exciting new producer in Niagara. Grapes from the vineyard west of St. Catharines were harvested over a month-long period to craft a wine with intriguing complexity and satisfying structure and texture. An enticing flavour suggests grapefruit, green apple and honey with some kerosene/petrol aromas that add to the complex character. Drink now to 2032. (12.5 per cent abv, 8.7 g/litre r.s.) Available direct, dobbinestate.com.
Dr. L Riesling 2022 (Germany), $16.95
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Famed Mosel winemaker Ernst Loosen found a winning combination when he paired this easy-to-appreciate riesling with an easy-to-understand label. Without displaying the nth degree details – those hard-to-pronounce vineyard designations and ripeness level declarations – that can confuse consumers, the label focuses attention on the brand, the grape variety and vintage. Expect mouth-filling ripe citrus and peach flavours as part of this sweeter style, low alcohol, medium-bodied riesling. Drink now to 2027. (8.5 per cent abv, 43 g/litre r.s.) Available at the above price in Ontario, $17.99 in British Columbia, ($15.99 until March 31), various prices in Alberta, $16.45 in Quebec, $18.29 in New Brunswick, $19.99 in Nova Scotia, $19.49 in Prince Edward Island, $20.45 in Newfoundland.
Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2021 (United States), $18.95
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Made in Washington’s Columbia Valley, Kung Fu Girl lacks the intense aromas or purity often associated with riesling, but more than makes up for that on the palate. This delivers a mix of ripe tropical fruit, peach and apricot flavours with fresh citrusy acidity and a lingering savoury note. Drink now. (12 per cent abv, 14 g/litre r.s.) Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $17.69 in Manitoba, $18.45 in Quebec, $21.99 in New Brunswick.
Tantalus Riesling 2022 (Canada), $30.99
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Tantalus is one of Canada’s top producers thanks to the consistently enjoyable style of its rieslings. Produced from the estate vineyard in Kelowna, B.C., this is made in a juicy and flavourful style, with a mix of lime, peach and green apple flavours that are rounded out with stone and floral notes. Drink now to 2034. (12.9 per cent abv, 14.7 g/litre r.s.) Available at the above price in British Columbia, $27.83 direct from tantalus.ca, various prices in Alberta, $38.29 in Manitoba.
Yalumba The Y Series Riesling 2021 (Australia), $14.95
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Riesling grapes grown in South Australia are used to create this refreshing and focused white wine. Lime, floral and marmalade aromas stand out in the glass, while the flavours are mouthwatering grapefruit and lime notes. A lovely aperitif style. Vegan. Drink now to 2026. (12 per cent abv, 5 g/litre r.s.) Available in Ontario.
Christopher Waters